Everyone's opinion of the "best" set of equipment varies. What might be suitable for some, might not fit another. You can get as much advice from friends and 'experts' but the final decision, whether it is the right equipment for your purpose, falls on you.
The best way to be sure is to actually try the equipment beforehand but that might not always be possible. Just 3 things - "Fit, Comfort and Reliability". Some equipment will also need servicibilty as a criteria. If you have no other option but to just try it out in the shop, it should fit you and it should feel comfortable when you put on that piece of equipment.
This page is intended to give our 2-cents worth of advice to relatively new divers on choosing a proper set of equipment for themselves. For experienced divers, you should already know what to look out for when you go shopping for a new set of gear.
Again, our views may vary for individuals to individuals. Use it only as a guide and make the right choice for yourself.
If anyone want to share a view with others or give their 3-cents worth of advise, drop us a line and we would be more than happy to listen to your suggestions. Or if you have a question that needs an answer, contact us at Divers' Dreams
If you want to know more than what you have learned in your Open Water Diver course about diving equipment, enrol in our PADI Equipment Specialist course. This will greatly enhance your knowledge on SCUBA diving equipment.
What are the important facts when choosing the right equipment for yourself?
Silicone skirtings are most preferred and some are softer than others. Softer silicone tends to feel more comfortable and will usually give you a better seal. Masks with purge valves makes clearing of water from the mask a little easier. Some masks with purge valves have a hard cover over the nose pocket and makes equalizing a little different. People with long hair would find a neoprene mask strap very useful.
Snorkels are the easiest piece of equipment to decide on. Fancy contraptions on the top of the snorkels are not always neccessary and they would tend to increase bulk. Purge valve makes it easy to clear water and the flexible hose would be useful in diving as it straightens the snorkel out when you are using your regulator 2nd stage.
Main thing about choosing a pair of fins is the stiffness of it. Stiffer fins, no doubt, gives you a better thrust but it does require some leg power to do so. If you feel you are a bit weak on the leg power department, a soft or mid-range fins will do very nicely. Speed is the least concern underwater. More important is that you don't get too tired or cramps if the fins are too stiff for you. The technique of kicking with fins will also play a part in how effective the fins might be. Open-heel or Full-foot? Open-heel as an all-rounder fins as you can use it in any conditions (cold water, shore/boat diving, etc.) as you are protected by a pair of booties. Full-foot fins are generally used in warmer waters and boat diving. It can, of course, be used for shore diving but just be careful walking into the surf zone with your bare feet. If in doubt, start off with a full-footed fins and if you're seriously getting into diving, no harm investing in an open-heel fins later on. A lot of serious divers usually have both types for different occassions.
Balanced would be preferred as it is not affected so much by depth or tank pressure. In terms of performance, you can't really tell the difference between a diaphragm or piston. Diaphragm is more environmentally sealed but maintenance is more costly as there are more parts to replace. Reliability and servicibility are 2 main criterias in choosing your regulator. Get a reliable brand and make sure that there is a good service center with parts available easily where you live. Some regulators offers limited warranty and free parts for a limited time. Remember your regulator is your life support underwater. Keep it well maintained and serviced regularly, it should serve you well for a very long time.
Main thing is that when you put on the BCD, you should feel comfortable in it. It should feel snug, as a loose BCD would tend to roll around on you underwater. A choice of BCDs with the air bladder wrapped around you (as in most jacket style) or having the air bladder on the back. Those with the air bladder behind tends to tilt you face forward when you are on the surface but does offer less constrictions on the whole of your body compared to the other. The light-weight BCDs usually have materials made of 420-denier and they go as thick as 1000-denier (very tough). If you go for the technical BCD intended for heavy duty usage and with stainless steel D-rings, weight integrated pockets, etc., expect to spend quite a bit on them. A normal light-weight BCD for just the normal recreational diving will suit most people and the cost could be just half of the technical BCDs.
Seldom used but a neccessity. Reliability and servicibility as in a regulator. An extra hose or not? A question you must ask yourself as that would determine the cost of this piece of equipment. The common alternate air-source (the "octopus") is relatively inexpensive compared to the "Inflator Regulator" which replaces the normal inflator system on your BCD (no extra piece of equipment or hose).
A single pressure gauge module, one with a depth gauge, an additional compass or having a dive computer intergrated all in a console. This will decide on the cost. Readings in 'metres' or in 'feet'.
Most important is a snuggly fitting wetsuit. The thickness of the wetsuit will depend on the places you will be diving. In tropical areas, a 3mm wetsuit will be sufficient but that again depends on the person wearing it. Shorties tends to offer less protection then a long suit but is easier to get in and out of. If you are not sure, get a full length suit. If you find difficulty in getting into a thick full suit, try using a small plastic bag wrapped around your hand and feet. We all come in all shapes and sizes and getting a suit to fit us perfectly is quite difficult. An option of course is to have it tailored. It is not much more expensive then a branded suit and you can have a choice of design and colours.
A basic model or an air-integrated one? Or a hoseless air integrated computer? Cost would vary depending on the features. There are dive computers that show date and time, keep multiple logs, shows your dive profile, dive simulators, nitrox capability, down-loading capability and other features. Ask yourself if you need all the features or just a basic model that does what a dive computer should do. Another thing is the battery changeability. Can it be changed by the user, a service center in your local area or does it have to be sent back to the factory?
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